The sun is just starting to fall lower into the sky. It was such a pretty pink but by the time I got the tripod set up it was almost gone. Lesson number one…be ready.
My husband ended my year with the gift of a photo tour of Boston’s North End. The North End is one of my favorite parts of the city. We go frequently but not usually at night. Jim went to college there, so we are very familiar with the streets and little squares along the route of the old North End. This Christmas gift was so special, though, for several reasons. It was a photo tour at twilight/dusk. It was also a challenge for me since I don’t usually shoot at night except if a place is really well-lit. I was up for the challenge. This is my year for getting back into my life. Doing the things I love to do so off, I went to find that tripod and dust it off. It’s been a while since that baby has seen the light of day.
The North End of Boston is better known as Little Italy. Boston is broken down into neighborhoods, and so I’m sure you guessed that this is the Italian part of town. To this day, families still work and live here. They have their own grammar school and churches, and the housing is mostly high-rise tenements—some housing generations of the same family. Shopping is still done locally right here. So many local shops where everybody knows your name. Just as they do in Europe, most shop daily. There are also touristy shops on the main road, but if you often go enough and visit the locals, they remember you. I do have my favorite shops that I love and also my favorite restaurants. I must say though, most any restaurant in this area is good. So come along with me, and let’s see how this old original part of town stacks up at night. It was busy, but we always felt quite safe walking these streets any time of the day. The rumor was when Jim was in school here that the Mafia lived in the North End, so it was the safest place to Boston. I’m not sure if that was true, but it made me feel better.
Faneuil Hall, around the corner from the North End, is a great place to start. There is always music and other forms of entertainment happening inside and outside if the weather is good. We were so fortunate to have a good night…
As you enter the North End from the top of Hanover St., you will leave Haymarket Square. The building above is the State Street bank, and the sun was starting to descend. The light on those buildings really caught my eye. So warm, and the blue glass was stunning. No need for the tripod yet.
There she is. Mother Anna’s is the gateway to the North End and one of the oldest buildings in Boston. The restaurant opened its doors in 1932 and is still run by the same family today. The apartments above are typical of much of the housing in the North End and perhaps at one time the entire Travaglione family might have lived there.
There is a lot of competition between Mike’s Pastry and Modern Pastry. Both are very good, but I think of them as where tourist visit. They have some die-hard patrons, and everything they sell is amazing, so stop in town. They are both on Hanover Street, which is considered the main street, but there is so much more to the North End if you take a few lefts and rights off of Hanover.
Moving down Hanover Street, you come to many restaurants with different price ranges and styles but all Italian. There are also pizza shops, gift shops, butchers, bakers, and bars. I also love the little alleys along the way—shops on the bottom, residences on the top. One of the things I like to do is take reflection photos. This street is perfect for that. Looking at the back of my ghost reflection, you will see a white sign. Unless you know about this, you will never guess that the door below that sign is a small authentic Italian restaurant. It is only open for lunch, and they usually only have 4 or 5 items on the menu. Pizza every day. They also only serve beer and wine…don’t ask about the brand, which is in plastic cups. Cheap prices. It’s a local place, no need to advertise. It’s been there for years. We love it there. The red square on the bottom of the sign says Coke. That is how you will know you are at the right place. Most of the town workers visit here, and the locals who are not looking for fancy, just good. Don’t forget to check out a few of the alleys along the way. You might find a good butcher shop or a take-out joint.
After walking a bit further down the street the sun came out in a big burst and I turned around and this is what I saw. Two of Bostons finest buildings surrounded by clouds and gorgeous light. The building with the clock in it is the Custom House Tower. It was the finale end of the light for this day. It sure went out in style.
Before we take a right and start visiting some of the side streets I wanted to show you the reflection behind me. The side streets not only have shops but this is where the housing is for all the folks who live here. It’s fascinating to see and still holds true to this day. It’s home to many families that have been here for many, many years. Such an authentic section of Boston. Some shops might come and go but the North End never really changes.
The sun has set, and the tripod is out. We are now in a little square that is one of my favorites. I love the old-world charm here. The restaurants are more upscale, and the housing is much different. North Square—the oldest public square in America sits on a small hill overlooking the city. ... Boston skyline with cobblestone streets. The oldest public square in America has a cozy, private, less touristy feel Mamma Maria is a special occasion restaurant for some of us.
Still part of North Square is the Sacred Heart Italian Church and schoolyard. This lovely couple caught my eye as they were walking through. I thought I had been transported from Boston to London for a minute…
On the right side of North Square, you will find another restaurant, shop, and housing above. I was fascinated by the design of these two buildings, and I was especially delighted by the upstairs room, which is not as visible here as I would have liked. The ceiling is an old tin ceiling, and the lighting is fantastic. Christmas decorations were still up all over town, so the square was really festive and bright.
Oh, what a night…leaving North Square, we cross directly across Hanover Street and head down Prince Street. The clouds roll in, and the sun is gone. We are now in the neighborhood—the Corner of Prince and Salem Street. Salem Street is one of my favorites. You really get the sense of family down here. Local shops, local people, and the old feel of days gone by. I love it here. I think the buildings are stunning. Standing in this spot, you can feel the old but then look up, and the new part of Boston is not very far away. It’s a perfect walking neighborhood. Come with me now to taste the real North End.
This is it. Bovas…the bakery where the local goes. You can not beat it. Every time I come to the North End, I save Bovas for last. A family owned business, they honestly have the BEST coconut cream cake on the planet. Everything else in there is pretty good also. When my brother was here we would go there and between the two of us we would go home with at least three bags of pastry and he’d be eating it in the car on the ride home. They are open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year…now that has to tell you something. Do Not Miss this place when in the North End.
Walking up Salem Street, heading towards our car, we enjoy the flavor of this section of town. Everyone is friendly and in a good mood. The North End does that to you. A beautiful night spending time with other photographers and learning a few tricks along the way. Do you see that sign on the left of the street? It says Coffee. Stop in there when you come. Just walking through the door will enlighten your senses. A small coffee/tea shop, all fresh and loose. Grinding up the coffee all day long. This is where I buy my loose tea. Spices abound, as does Italian candy and dried fruits and nuts. Go in and breathe and say hi to Bobby for me. He is one of the best.
The flavors of Salem Street…It’s even prettier at night than during the day…It’s time to head back, but before we leave, one more stop on Hanover St.
Ah, I have saved the best for last. Gelato. The perfect end to a beautiful night. Gelato, Italian ice cream. Not like American ice cream. Much smoother and richer. Winter, summer, spring, or fall…gelato is the choice for all. Perfect ending. Those two in front were some of my photo buddies…one was the teacher. He helped me to fall in love with my tripod again. I still need some practice, but it was so much fun.
Don’t forget to say goodbye to the boys on your way out. It’s a common sight to see many of the locals sitting outside, just as they do in Italy. They love chatting and telling stories and having a beer or wine. They are the fabric of this great neighborhood. The ladies even share with them the treats of the night. If you closed your eyes and just took in the sounds and the smells, you would feel like you had somehow been transported to Italy…not a wrong way to spend a day and then carry it on into the night…Don't miss Paul Revere’s house… it's just down the road a piece. Right next to the Old South Church.
I hope you enjoyed this little bit of time together in the North End of Boston. If you are ever in New England and coming to Boston, add it to your list of things to do. Sights to see. It’s history at its finest, and I can assure you when the day is done, you will be so glad that you chose to come. Happy Travels…
““It’s such a great city, visually. You can’t get that kind of look in Canada that you can get in Boston: the old-brick historical buildings, the winding streets, and the old but funky neighborhoods like Southie and Somerville. You can’t get that elsewhere. It’s a very unique place in that way.” – ”
